from the very last weekend i had in south carolina before the move
started filming in hawaii yesterday at rocky point. by the end of november, there should be a pretty rad edit
cant even remember the last time i went surfing… it’s been so flat. cant wait for the big move to oahu in 8 days! doesnt even seem real yet
throwing it back to exploring santanas
missing blue water & real waves.
So you're doing exactly what I want to do, and I think that's so awesome. I was wondering how you went about getting ready for it? Like money wise and such
in between surf contests when im home, i just work a couple different jobs a bunch and save up. i rarely ever spend money on anything except entry fees and gas, so by now i have a couple thousand ready to go. then honestly, i just went on cheaptickets.com and searched a bunch of different 1-way flights to oahu on different days and from different airports. found a reasonable one out of my local airport on november 5, didnt think about it or second guess myself and just went ahead and booked it. ill figure everything else out once im over there
wow that is incredible that you're going to move to oahu. that is seriously one of my biggest desires, to just go to the north shore without any plans whatsoever and just figure it out there. i'm really interested in seeing how that goes, I hope you blog about it, i definitely support you in this decision!! i would love to do the same thing soon :)
my mom wasnt actually able to go to the olympics :( she went to the trials and qualified, but that year they passed through that you have to be 14 or older law and she was still 13 and she just ended up quitting swimming competitively before the next olympics came around. ill definitely be blogging about my adventures and how things go as long as i can come across wifi! it was terrifying when i was on the airline site debating on whether or not to book it with nowhere to live or any plans… but i just took a deep breath and clicked the purchase before i could second guess myself too much. now i have a 1-way ticket and i cant wait to get out there!
you cant just waste your time away thinking of the what ifs. take the risks and create your own reality and just follow through with no regrets.
had so much fun with my best friends at southern ground music & food festival this past weekend. monday i had the opportunity to teach some of the band members & their children how to surf.
damn youre such a brave person!! i wish i had the guts to do that cause it is also my dream and I admire you for that. Good luck!!
everyone has the ability to make their dream a reality as long as you put forth the effort and have faith in yourself and your talents. just take the leap of faith. whats the worst that could happen? you delay going to college and getting a job a year or two? who cares? you only have once chance in life, dont waste it. when youre on your death bed, you wont be thinking about all the schoolwork you did or all the hours you put in at work or money. youll be thinking of the moments that made your heart stop beating, took your breath away, and made you realize how beautiful the world and everything in it is. take the risk and spend your life finding that beauty and following your bliss, making those dreams into a reality.
Youre moving to oahu without having a place to live in?
thats exactly what im doing. ill figure it out when i get there. trust your struggles and trust the universe, let the bliss of living in paradise and chasing my dreams occupy my mind and worries.
this world is so beautiful & there’s so much to do and see. we’re all so young. what a waste life would be if we didn’t risk anything because of our fears, didnt see the world we live in, or even feel alive? what a waste our life would be if we didn’t follow our hearts or do what makes us happy?
i hope you follow your dreams, follow your wanderlust, & follow whatever gives you your goosebumps. find your bliss, and follow it even if that means not having a college degree framed on your wall, or a steady income, or a nice big house, or expensive, pretty materials items. when you’re laying there dying, you won’t be thinking about how much money you’ve made in your lifetime, or the degrees you earned, or the things you bought. you’ll be on your deathbed thinking about the people you love and the beautiful places you’ve been and the moments that took your breath away simply because of how beautiful they were. youll be thinking about the dreams you had as a child, those dreams that might not have come alive, but could have given the chance.
gain the courage to follow whatever makes you feel most alive and never stop chasing those dreams. youre never to old to dream a new dream, and youre never too old to start chasing it. life is so beautiful. i hope you find the moments that make you forget who you are, forget that youre human, forget that time exists.
live a life that you’re proud of, and when you’re on your death bed, i hope you have no regrets.
i challenge you to stop mindlessly abiding by the social norms, the expectations put upon you by your family, friends, and peers. i challenge you took look at yourself, your life, and question what makes you happy and if you’re working towards following your dreams or following the expectations.
ive been told by a multitude of different people that im making a “mistake” with my life choices. that im “wasting my potential” by not going to college and getting a degree right out of high school just because its something that they dont understand.
home is not a place, or a person, or a thing. home is freedom. the freedom i get by traveling on the road. living like a vagabond with only moving as a constant. chasing my dreams and not letting others discourage me.
in two weeks, ill be moving to oahu and backpacking around the island. i have nowhere to live, no real plans, but ill be following my bliss and the prospect gives me nothing but happiness. ill be surfing some of the best waves in the world every day and doing what makes me happy for no one but myself. i know ill have obstacles to overcome, and i know i will be fighting for my dream. nobody ever said that it would be easy, the sacrifices and the risks for our dreams, but it sure as hell will be worth it.
photo: richard jansen
a short clip from a few days back home & in nags head during an absolutely abysmal summer on the east coast.
music - cold lips, the beets
film - susan mason, jimmy hawk